The mountain and the ridge
Beenkeragh (Irish Binn Chaorach, ‘sheep mountain’) stands north of Carrauntoohil in County Kerry’s MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, and taken on its own it is a fairly plain lump of purple sandstone. What makes it matter is the ridge on its southern side: a narrow, rocky arete that drops to a mid-point top called The Bones (Na Cnámha) and then climbs to Carrauntoohil, the highest point in the country. That crossing is the exposed part of the Coomloughra Horseshoe, with steep drops on either side.
Access and mountain conditions
The Reeks are privately owned working farmland. Check the Mountain Access Forum’s guidance and contact the forum if you are unsure whether your route is open. Follow landowner signs, keep to the paths, close gates and don’t add to the erosion. This is working sheep-farming ground, so leave dogs at home.
Kerry Mountain Rescue describes the full horseshoe as a route for experienced parties and advises against taking the ridge in windy conditions. In wind or ice the ridge becomes a mountaineering problem and should be left alone.
The Coomloughra Horseshoe
Most people who take Beenkeragh on do so as part of the Coomloughra Horseshoe, a loop over the three highest peaks in Ireland: Carrauntoohil, Beenkeragh and Caher. It is a long mountain day, and one that needs a head for heights and dry rock. The old guidebook estimates are optimistic unless you are moving fast and the cloud stays off, so allow plenty of time and start early.
The routes are unmarked and the paths vanish in cloud. Carry a map and compass, a charged GPS and a good forecast, and choose a lower route if visibility or conditions are poor. Summer gives the best odds of dry rock and long daylight. Winter brings snow and ice that put the ridge out of reach for anyone without an axe, crampons and the skill to use them.
What you’ll see
The Reeks are built of purple sandstone and siltstone, the Ballinskelligs Sandstone Formation, laid down in the Devonian, and the reddish rock shows on the steeper ground. Ice did the rest, gouging out the corries and the U-shaped valleys.
The standout from the ridge is the Eagle’s Nest, a three-tiered corrie on Carrauntoohil’s north-east face. Its top shelf holds Lough Cummeenoughter, a cold, clear pool far below the ridge line. The pointed Hag’s Tooth rises in the neighbouring glen and gives a closer look at the corrie from the south-east.
Guided walks and nearby
If the arete sits at the edge of your comfort, consider going with a qualified mountain guide. Afterwards, Beaufort is a handy village to refuel, and the drive on towards Glenbeigh and the Ring of Kerry swaps the high ground for the coast.
If you want views of the mountains from lower ground, start with the signed trails in Killarney National Park. If you do go up, choose still, dry weather, only if steep exposed rock doesn’t rattle you, and keep both hands free for The Bones.