Overview
Belcoo and Blacklion are really one place split by a river and an international border. The narrow channel that drains Upper into Lower Lough MacNean is the line between Northern Ireland and the Republic, with Belcoo on the Fermanagh bank and Blacklion in County Cavan on the other. Since the border opened and went unpatrolled in 1998, the two function as a single community, and you can cross the bridge without noticing you’ve changed jurisdiction, currency aside.
The Irish Béal Cú means ‘mouth of the narrows’, after that little river. You’ll see the older folk translation ‘mouth of the hound’ tied to a Breifne legend, but the narrows is the real source of the name. It’s a small village, and the reason to come is what’s around it: the limestone country of the Cuilcagh Lakelands UNESCO Global Geopark, above ground and below.
For a short stop, head to Cottage Lawn on the shore of the lower lake. If you have half a day, plan the Cuilcagh Boardwalk as a separate outing.
The Cuilcagh Boardwalk
The Cuilcagh Boardwalk Trail, known to everyone as the Stairway to Heaven, is what put Belcoo on the map. A timber boardwalk crosses protected blanket bog before a steep final staircase climbs to a viewing platform on Cuilcagh Mountain, on the Fermanagh–Cavan border. It starts separately from the village, on Marlbank Road.
A few honest warnings. The geopark grades the trail difficult. It has stiles, steps and a steep staircase, so it is unsuitable for wheelchairs. Leave dogs at home for this trail. The bog is a protected habitat, so stop at the viewing platform and stay on the designated route; the boardwalk does not take you to the summit of Cuilcagh. The plateau is exposed, so check the mountain forecast and allow around three hours for the round trip.
The private car park at the trailhead takes advance bookings. The geopark lists free parking at Killykeeghan Nature Reserve, about 1 km farther along Marlbank Road.
Cottage Lawn
In the centre of the village, Cottage Lawn is a green space on the shore of Lower Lough MacNean. The Cuilcagh Lakelands Geopark guide points out the mature trees, playground and views across the water to Hanging Rock and Cuilcagh.
The name comes from ‘The Cottage’, the first stone house in Belcoo, built by Hamilton James, who in 1848 was among those who brought the railway and station to the village and effectively made it a town. The cottage later housed the railway workers.
St Patrick’s Holy Well
Just outside the village at Holywell is St Patrick’s Holy Well, locally called St Patrick’s Tub (from tobar, a well). It is a pilgrimage site connected with the old Lughnasa period in late summer, and the well has long been associated with healing, including cures for cattle ailments. Treat it as a place of devotion, respect any people praying there, and keep to public roads and paths.
Wildlife
Lough MacNean is clean enough to hold a good otter population, and it’s an important spot for migratory birds: whooper swans, Greenland white-fronted geese and golden plover all turn up. Early morning along the shore is your best chance of an otter. Cottage Lawn itself is good for bats at dusk, with common pipistrelle, soprano pipistrelle and Daubenton’s all recorded.
For organised activity on the water and underground, check the Corralea Activity Centre for what it offers, booking and conditions.
Nearby
The Marble Arch Caves are a short drive away near Florencecourt, with guided underground visits along cave rivers, and the National Trust’s Florence Court house and demesne is close by. Across the border at Blacklion, Cavan Burren Park has megalithic tombs and glacial limestone scenery within the same geopark.
Getting there
- By road – Take the A4 from Enniskillen (10 miles / 16 km east) or the N16 from Manorhamilton and Sligo.
- By bus – Bus Éireann route 458 serves Belcoo on the Sligo–Enniskillen corridor. Check the onward leg separately if you are heading for the boardwalk.
- By train – There’s no station at Belcoo; the nearest is Sligo.
- Parking – Check the boardwalk’s booking arrangements before you arrive, or use the free Killykeeghan Nature Reserve parking described above.