Overview
Church Island lies in Lough Currane near the village of Waterville, and it can only be reached by boat. It is a quiet, uninhabited island with an early-medieval monastery to walk around and little else. Known in Irish as Inis Uasal (‘Noble Island’) and Inis na bFer Náemh (‘Island of Holy Men’), it is a National Monument in state care.
How to get there
Discover Ireland says access is by boat only and can be arranged locally. Confirm boat and landing arrangements with a local operator before travelling, and stay ashore if conditions are poor. Check the forecast and lake conditions: a sudden Atlantic squall can turn the short crossing choppy.
History
There has been religious activity here since the 6th or early 7th century, when Saint Fionán Cam is credited with founding the monastery. The name Inis Uasal turns up in the 1058 entry of the Annals of Inishfallen, which fixes the island’s standing in the medieval church. The most visible ruins are later: a Romanesque stone church of the 12th century, most likely built over an earlier wooden oratory.
The graveyard holds three tombs. One records the burial in 1058 of Anmchad, the ‘anchorite of God’, its inscription mixing Irish with the alpha and omega of Greek. Tradition puts Saint Fionán himself under one of the three leachta, low cairn-like burial mounds, on the island.
What to see
- The 12th-century Romanesque church – roofless now, but its rounded arches and heavy walls still read clearly. Look for the outline of the original doorway and the chancel.
- The carved lyre-player – a 12th-century sandstone block shows a musician playing a bowed lyre; the carving is similar to work on the Porta de la Gloria at Santiago de Compostela, a hint of how far Irish monasteries reached. It is weather-worn, so a zoom lens helps.
- Cross slabs and pillar stones – carved cross slabs, several bearing the knotwork and interlace of Irish Romanesque work.
- Beehive cells – a small number of dry-stone huts survive.
Leave the ruins and the carved stone undisturbed. There is no admission charge for the island itself.
Staying safe
There are no facilities on the island, so bring water, a snack and a waterproof bag. The stone surfaces are slippery when wet, so wear shoes with grip. The terrain is uneven, with natural stone steps and low walls, so the island is not wheelchair-accessible.
If conditions are against you, the Kerry Way from Waterville gives views out over Church Island and Lough Currane without leaving dry land.