Overview
Durrow is a 6th-century monastery site associated with St Colmcille, in the oak woods west of Tullamore, with far more history than a quiet visit lets on. The Irish name, Darú, means “plain of the oaks”, and the neighbouring woodland is mixed Coillte forest of Scots pine, Norway spruce, birch and rowan beside the old monastic ground.
One thing to know before you set out: the high cross and its church are closed for conservation works. The OPW records that the cross now stands inside the church, and Visit Offaly confirms it is closed to the public. If the carved cross is the one thing you came for, check before planning the trip.
A layered history
Durrow’s story begins in the mid-6th century, when St Colmcille (Columba) chose this oak-rich landscape for a monastery. It grew into an important centre of learning.
The community is long associated with the Book of Durrow, an illuminated Gospel manuscript from the early Middle Ages. It is held today in the library of Trinity College Dublin, and Trinity’s researchers say its place of production remains uncertain. The original stone church is gone, its footprint marked by a later, modest building.
The grounds saw Viking raids and Norman fortification: Hugh de Lacy raised a motte here in 1180 and was beheaded by a local workman on the site in 1186. Centuries later, in 1839, the 2nd Earl of Norbury was murdered on the estate. Durrow Abbey House, the present mansion, was built between 1835 and 1845, gutted by fire in the 1920s and rebuilt with a new interior by the architect Ralph Byrne. It is not open to the public. In 2003 the Irish State bought the monastic site, the high cross and part of the demesne.
What to see
The high cross and church The centrepiece is a sandstone high cross of the 9th century, carved with biblical scenes including the Sacrifice of Isaac, the Crucifixion and the Last Judgement. It was moved indoors, into the small church, for protection. Both cross and church are currently closed for conservation, so the carvings can’t be seen up close for now.
The old monastic ground Around the church are early grave slabs and a fragment of a second cross. St Colmcille’s well has long been the focus of local pilgrimage; check access before you go.
Durrow Abbey House The house is not open to the public. Its limestone walls, gable-end bay windows, tall chimneys and corner turrets give it a castle-like outline across the demesne.
A separate woodland walk Coillte lists forest roads and a car park in woodland beside the old estate. Use the forest entrance and keep to the tracks. There are no waymarked trails, so note where you started and follow any signs on access. The woods are home to pheasant, woodcock and grey squirrel. The Pattern of Durrow, a pilgrimage and festival with a long history that includes a procession to the holy well, has traditionally been held in June, so check locally if you want to catch it.
Visiting tips and practical info
- Getting there: Durrow lies a short drive from Tullamore towards Kilbeggan. Follow the signs and use the forest entrance listed by Coillte.
- Parking and admission: Coillte lists a car park for the neighbouring woodland. Check Coillte for current access and any parking arrangements.
- What to bring: Don’t expect a visitor centre, café or shop. Bring water, a snack and footwear that suits forest tracks.
- Accessibility: Several woodland paths are likely to be uneven or root-covered, and awkward for wheelchairs or pushchairs.
- Combining your visit: Tullamore is a short drive for food, beds and the Tullamore D.E.W. Visitor Centre. For more early Christian heritage, Clonmacnoise on the Shannon is within easy reach.
With the cross closed, treat Durrow as a woodland walk with deep roots rather than a monument visit, best given an unhurried hour or two.