Overview
On a hill above Stepaside, at the foot of the Dublin Mountains, three pieces of the past stand close together: a ruined tower house, an early medieval high cross, and a small 1707 church on a pre-Norman site. If you have time for one of them, make it the cross, which is older and stranger than either of its neighbours. The rest is a short, quiet detour off the usual County Dublin circuit, with long views south towards Wicklow.
History & Heritage
Kilgobbin Castle
The Cambro-Norman Walsh (or Walshe) family held this ground on the edge of the Pale, part of a defensive chain that guarded Dublin from raiders moving up from County Wicklow. They were granted a ten-pound royal subsidy under Henry VI to fortify the site, but the stone tower house whose stump survives dates from around 1476, the same year the O’Byrnes sacked it. Archaeological surveys show the hilltop was lived on well before any of that, with traces of medieval metalworking and pottery pointing to long, continuous settlement.
The Walshes eventually lost the property during the 1641 confiscations. Ownership passed through several hands, including Adam Loftus, Confederate officer Mathew Talbot, and later Dr John Harding of Trinity College. By the early 19th century the castle had fallen into ruin, with its north and east walls collapsing in 1832. Antiquarian John Lee recorded the site in the 1800s, noting it had once been known locally as Sesson Castle. The ruins remain a fixture in local folklore, with tales of a spectral knight and a woman rattling coins in a water bucket persisting in village stories. The castle is private property and is not open to visitors.
Kilgobbin High Cross
The high cross, dating from the 10th to 12th centuries, was discovered buried in the churchyard in 1800 during wall repairs. The OPW places it at the foot of the slope opposite Kilgobbin Church. The ringed head is partially weathered, but the east face clearly depicts a crucifixion scene, while the west face is widely interpreted as showing the Risen Christ within a Last Judgement motif. Local tradition links the cross to the aftermath of the Battle of Clontarf, suggesting it was erected to mark the graves of Irish warriors or to commemorate a pause by Brian Boru’s forces. Another theory proposes it served as a territorial marker for an early bishopric.
Kilgobbin Church
The present stone church was constructed in 1707 on the site of an earlier wooden building. A rare Viking-age gravestone, known as the ‘Rathdown Slab’, was originally set into the doorway lintel, underscoring the long-standing sacred nature of the location. The church’s simple rectangular form reflects early-18th-century ecclesiastical architecture, while the surrounding graveyard contains fragments of continental ‘Belarmine’ pottery, indicating trade connections and a well-established community in the 16th century.
What to See & Do
- Examine the High Cross – Look for the surviving ring and carved figures, and study the carving on both faces. The juxtaposition of crucifixion and resurrection motifs offers a rare visual narrative of early Irish Christianity, preserved in the open air for centuries. Leave the cross untouched.
- See the church from the public approach – The modest 1707 building and the weathered headstones in the surrounding graveyard are part of the setting. Respect church and residential entrances and keep them clear.
- View the castle from public ground – The tower house is private property, so enjoy it as part of the skyline rather than approaching it.
- Photograph the Landscape – The site commands wide views across the Dublin Mountains and the surrounding countryside. Early morning or late afternoon light casts long shadows across the ruins, creating good compositions without the crowds found at more popular sites.
Getting There & Practical Information
Kilgobbin is reached off the R117 through Stepaside. There is no rail or DART station nearby, so a car is much the easiest way in, and public transport into this pocket of the mountains is limited. Keep to the public approach and do not park across church or residential entrances.
Kilgobbin is an unguided site with no formal visitor centre or ticket office. The OPW looks after the high cross as a National Monument, so take normal caution on uneven ground and stone surfaces. Historic fabric and uneven ground make access difficult for wheelchairs and buggies. Check the Heritage Ireland page for the latest details before you go, and detailed archaeological maps can be viewed on the Historic Environment Viewer.
Walking & Nearby Attractions
There’s no marked Kilgobbin loop, but the Dublin Mountains Way passes close by, linking the area to forest tracks and other ruins for anyone who wants to turn the visit into a proper walk.
Within a short drive:
- Carrickmines Castle – ruins of a Norman castle, another glimpse of the region’s medieval past.
- Bohernabreena Reservoir – a quiet spot for a picnic or a bit of birdwatching, within easy reach of the R117.
- Ballyboden – a village on the edge of the Dublin Mountains, with access to several marked walking routes.
Bring sturdy footwear and a light jacket, as the hilltop exposure means temperatures drop quickly and winds can be sharp. Plan your supplies before heading up from Stepaside.