The valley that stayed dark
The Black Valley lies south of the Gap of Dunloe, below the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, between the Gap and Moll’s Gap. The ESB archive records the scattered community as one of the isolated areas still seeking electricity connections in the 1970s. The Irish name, Com Uí Dhuibh – ‘Black Glen’ – is older than any of that, but locals enjoy the coincidence and will tell you the ‘black’ is for all those centuries of dark nights. Either way it sets the tone: a remote glen where visitors often say they feel like the last people left on earth.
Most visitors hurry through on the way to the drama of the Gap. Don’t. If you have a car and an afternoon, drive slowly into the valley and look across it from the public road. If you are on foot for longer, you are almost certainly here for the Kerry Way.
Getting in
Drive to Moll’s Gap on the R568, then watch for the small side-road signed ‘Gearhasallagh’ after the townland; it drops steeply north into the valley. The valley roads are narrow and serve homes and farms, so take the bends slowly, use the passing places and leave gateways clear. In summer you may meet horse-drawn jaunting cars on the road, including on blind corners.
The valley floor is a U-shaped glacial trough of blanket bog and small lakes – Lough Reagh and Lough Googh chief among them – with the Reeks rising steeply on either side. Mist drifts down off the tops often enough that photographers come for the light as much as the landscape, and winter low sun between passing showers is a favourite with them.
Use public routes to look across the valley. If you want to approach a building or leave the road, get the landowner’s permission first.
Molly’s Cottage
The valley’s best-known feature is an abandoned stone dwelling near Lough Reagh, in the townland of Drumluska, known as Molly’s Cottage or the Slate House. Its weathered, eerie look has made it a favourite subject for photographers.
It stands on private working land, so we do not give directions. Ask the landowner before going near it, leave the structure as you found it, and take your litter home.
Walking the Kerry Way
The Kerry Way is the waymarked trail that loops the Iveragh Peninsula and starts and finishes in Killarney. It passes through the Black Valley and continues towards the Bridia Valley, running on from there towards Glencar. Choose a stage from the published maps and plan transport at both ends.
Stages on either side of the valley use lanes, boggy ground and exposed slopes. The route from Killarney passes Lord Brandon’s Cottage before the descent into the valley, and Sport Ireland warns of periodic flooding between Derrycunnihy Church and Lord Brandon’s Cottage. Check conditions before you set out and leave dogs at home for this route.
Mobile signal drops out in the valley’s centre, so download a GPX track or carry an Ordnance Survey map before you go.
The cycling loop
The valley is the wild middle section of a popular cycling loop linking the Gap of Dunloe, the Black Valley and Moll’s Gap. The catch is the descent from the Head of the Gap: a long stretch of narrow, steep tarmac where brakes overheat if you carry too much speed, so test them early and stay in low gears. Bikes can be hired in Killarney; bring a basic repair kit, because there is no help in the valley if something breaks.
Practical information
- Services: do not count on shops, food or fuel in the valley. Buy food and fill the tank before you turn off the R568.
- Stopping: the roads are narrow and busy with farm traffic. Pull in only where you can get clear, and never block a gateway.
- Road and weather: the road can be icy in winter and daylight is short, so drivers should ease off on the bends and winter cyclists should fit wider or studded tyres.
- Signal: mobile coverage is patchy throughout; offline maps are advisable.
- Staying over: check current accommodation options directly before you travel, as the valley’s long-running hostel has closed.
Nearby
- Gap of Dunloe – the valley is the quiet southern access into the Gap and the boat routes on the Lakes of Killarney.
- Moll’s Gap – a picturesque stop on the Ring of Kerry with views back to the Reeks.
- Lord Brandon’s Cottage – a 19th-century lodge on the Kerry Way, with boat access down to Ross Castle.
- Ladies View – the famous panoramic viewpoint on the N71.
- Beaufort – a nearby village if you need extra lodging.
Buy your lunch before you leave the R568, as there is nothing to buy once you drop into the valley, and the phone signal gives out long before the road does.