Overview
The thing to know about Purple Mountain before you start up it is that the top is not waymarked. The high ground forms a ridge with neighbouring Tomies Mountain, a web of faint tracks over loose sandstone and heather, and in low cloud, which is common here, people lose the line and get into trouble. This is a proper hillwalk on the eastern side of Killarney National Park, not a signed trail, and it wants a map, a compass and a decent forecast.
The name comes from the rock. Purple Mountain is built of Old Red Sandstone, which throws a purple-red cast in morning and evening light, and that colour gave it its 19th-century English name. Older maps called the whole massif Tomies; the place-name scholar Paul Tempan traces the Irish form to Tuamaidhe, after two burial cairns on the summit. As the English name spread, the older one slid down onto the neighbouring peak, Tomies Mountain. Its eastern half lies inside the national park, where the lower slopes still carry pockets of oak woodland, remnants of the forest that covered Ireland before people cleared it.
Walking routes
Any walk here needs a solid level of fitness and some navigation. The ground is steep and rough, and the routes in regular use are not signed, so do not rely on old tracks or an improvised descent. Mountaineering Ireland’s route account illustrates the rough terrain.
The classic Gap of Dunloe approach
The popular outing starts at the Gap of Dunloe, following the road through the glacial valley past its small lakes to the head of the Gap before climbing onto the mountain. From the high ground the ridge runs on towards Tomies Mountain. On a clear day it gives the full sweep of the Lakes of Killarney, MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, the Black Valley and, further off, the Beara Peninsula. Confirm your access, your route and your return before setting out, and allow plenty of daylight for the descent.
The direct summit ascent
If you only want the summit and not the full day, a direct ascent and return by the same line is the shorter option. Parking near the head of the Gap is limited, so check current arrangements and charges before you travel.
Rougher variations
Other lines on the mountain are rougher still, with more solitude, more technical ground and more route-finding through the heather. They are for experienced hillwalkers only; if you are unsure, choose a lower-level outing.
For a lower-level outing, use the published Killarney National Park route information and check current access notices.
Navigation and conditions
The ridge is not marked on the ground. Use current mapping, such as the OSI Discovery Series map and a 1:25,000 sheet of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, and carry a compass or GPS. The lower paths are clear enough; higher up they fade into faint tracks over loose sandstone. Weather turns fast at this height, and winter brings ice on the ridge and strong wind. Check Kerry Mountain Rescue’s advice and the mountain forecast, and bring a map and compass, waterproofs, boots and spare food. Turn back if conditions deteriorate.
Facilities and guided walks
There is nothing on the mountain itself, and any water taken from streams should be treated. Check what is available at the Gap of Dunloe trailhead before you go, as services vary through the year. If you would rather not navigate yourself, a qualified mountain guide is a sensible option; check their current arrangements directly.
Getting there
From Killarney, take the N72 towards Killorglin, turn left at the Beaufort junction and follow signs for the Gap of Dunloe. Check current parking arrangements and charges before you travel, as spaces are limited and the Gap road also carries jaunting-cars and cyclists.
Nearby highlights
- Lakes of Killarney – boat trips and lakeside trails a short drive from the trailhead.
- Gap of Dunloe scenic road – the glacial valley itself, with narrow bridges, small lakes and horse-drawn jaunting-cars.
- Muckross House and gardens – a 19th-century estate and mountain garden in the national park, an easy afternoon after the hill.
- Black Valley – a remote, quiet valley south of the Reeks.
If cloud is forecast, save Purple Mountain for another day: the ridge is exposed and unmarked, and it is no place to be guessing your line.